stock shim sequence 93' CR125

Generally speaking it's not normal for them to be different from side to side. Is it the compression side that is different or the rebound side? Also, why did you disassemble the rebound/ mid valve piston?

It would help if you had pictures to see what you have

I have experience with your problem, here is my advice, hope it helps you.

The only people with the actual stock shim stack sequence and shim sizes are people like Race Tech, Pro Circuit ect, but they do not share any of that information, plus it's been over 20 years and that information gets lost in cabinets or boxed and stored when moving.

Next way is to get another matching used unmolested part and disassemble it, if you do not have the stack list then it's always just a guess. Everything matters and that piston has an up and down if you look closely the ports are not the same on the top and bottom.

Last thing is to maybe slowly match the discoloration on the washers with what you think is the right way to assemble the stack, usually that piston and washers have wear marks to see what was lined up where, use a very bright light.

I've been where you are and now slide the stack on to a zip tie and make special marks for UP, been screwed for time making the same mistake.

Good luck with the lowering project.

Like Speed said you are likely not going to find someone with '93 specs. Maybe someone over at TT might pop up with it since there is more "tuners" posting there than here. I'm about the only one I know of that posts here, but this isn't actually a suspension tuning forum. Since you're not getting any help over there so far I'll ask you to do a few things first so we can get you on track.

Starting with the first picture of the reb/mid valve, re check and measure #22 to check it's an 11.2 and not two 11.1 stuck together. Check #17 & #18 to verify they're 21.15 & 21.1, hopefully they are both 21.1. Is #7 16.2 or two 16.1 stuck together. Are #5 from the left side and #20 from the right both 6id x 8od collars(can't tell if #20 is a shim or collar) and how tall are they, should be the same height 1.95mm, 2.05mm etc...

Also the rebound pistons should have a bleed port in them, Y/N and if yes what is the diameter if the hole 1mm, 1.5mm etc...

Second picture of the base compression, #9 in the right 18.15? should be 18.1. #2 on right 12.2 or two 12.1 stuck together.

Most of what you need is there with a few missing and a few that don't belong there, but I need those answered to get you close to know what you will need to find.

Double check the left base # 2, 9.15 or 8.5.15 like the one you just found. would make sense that they are the base valve clamp shims.

On your rebound #15 & #16 don't belong, 21.25 is ridiculously stiff for a fork shim. 25yr old technology is a bit weird, but for now pull those two aside. Someone removed all the rebound shims from the left and doubled them up on the right. Coming off the rebound tower each side should have 1ea of.

#7/25 the cup
#6/24 spring
#5/20 collar
#3/21 check plate (22.45/22.5)
*rebound piston
21.1
20.1
19.1
18.1
17.1
16.1
15.1
14.1
12.25 clamp shim

(#8 17.15 doesn't belong in that stack, kind of looks like a blue KYB shim too)

I don't see a picture on your post, but the bleed hole will be in the side of one of the piston ports. If it is 2mm that is kind of big and maybe in '93 they thought that the 21.25 were a good idea to keep the rebound from being too springy with that much bleed. Normally you'll have 21.1 x 4 or 21.1 x 6 instead of one 21.25, but can't be too sure here.

You also need a base plate between the clamp (12.25) and the nut. #2 is one, but the closest match looks like #23(20x2). Does #23 have a 6mm id? It's hard to tell from the picture.

Yes, R22/23 don't belong there. ^^See above and R8 should be removed.

In your picture, that is the rebound adjuster bleed, but the rebound piston will almost always have a bleed hole in it also.

#23 will have to be your base plate for now, the thickness doesn't matter because it has nothing to do with the shim stack. As long as it gives you enough threads to tighten the nut on it will work. My OCD says to get another #2 but #23 will work in a pinch.

3 bleed ports in the rebound is a lot and that tells me that those 21.25 shims do belong in the stack. One on each side first off the piston before the 21.1s.

I'm heading to a superbowl party right now, I'll help you with the base valve from my phone after I'm there. May be 1-2hrs before I'm back here...

Your base is more difficult because you've missing more, but most is there. #8 on the right base(17.2) doesn't belong there so remove it. #17,18&19 on the left doesn't need to be there and you don't want anything bent anyway. They would just be used as spacers between the cup(16) & the nut(20) if the nut bottoms out on the bottom of the threads before the stack tightens down. You're also missing the 14.1 for the left side between the 13.1 & 15.1 to match #4 on the right side.

The stack from the base plate up to the piston should be something like.

17x1.5 Base plate
9.15
10.1
11.1
12.1
13.1
14.1
15.1
16.1
17.1
18.1
19.1
20.1
21.1
Piston
Check plate(21.5x.4)
Collar
Spring
Cup
Nut

Oh holy hell, they fluted one of the cartridges... I'm out!

Not really sure what to tell you now other than I'd try to fine a replacement cartridge for the fluted one because standard valving won't work with what was done there.

That's exactly the intent except usually it was only done back in the damper rod fork days. You'd weld the one big damper hole closed and drill a series of continually smaller holes down the rod to progressively ramp up the damping of the fork. I have seen it done a few times on cartridge forks, but as a whole, speed sensitivity is considered a better way to go than position sensitivity. Kind of the same reason you never see progressively wound fork springs in modern cartridge forks.

FYI, http://www.ebay.com/itm/CR125R-CR125-HONDA-1993-CR-125-R-93-LOT-B-FORK-…

It will be a decent place to start with, but not having any '93 specs to reference it is somewhat of "reasonable guess". For instance the 9.15 clamp shim on the base valve may be a little small and give an overall too soft feel. Maybe using the 10.1 to clamp and leave out the 9.15 would be better or even leave out the 9.15 and 10.1 and use the 11.1 to clamp. Each step larger the last shim(clamp shim) is makes the entire stack a little stiffer.

Looking it over and having now seen that you have the fluted cartridge, the original settings make a bit more sense. This is actually a lot like the current Cobra 50/65 CARD forks in they also have one standard cartridge side and one fluted cartridge. The only difference is their fluted cartridge has no base valve so the top is considered the "bottom out adjuster". It uses a extremely stiff compression stack on the mid valve side and the adjusters bleed will have no real effect until the piston passes all the other bleed holes in the cartridge. The fork would almost hydraulic lock after the piston passes the last cartridge hole since there's no base valve and that's why the top adjuster bleed has so much influence over the final part of the stroke.

This design still retains a standard base valve and the mid compression is just a check plate giving very little damping unlike the Cobra's almost solid mid so I would assume that's why they consider the base valve on the fluted side as the bottoming control adjuster(last 60mm). That would seem to me to be much less effective than the CARD design since it will bleed so much pressure off through the check plate mid and base valve stack, but I have no experience with this Reiger system.

I would also agree that the base valve should have no effect on rebound adjustment since they work on a check plate refill system. The adjusters bleed will only be effective when there's resistance through the piston via a valving stack so the adjuster can bleed off pressure. With a check plate there is no pressure to bleed off.

Obviously your best bet at this stage it to consult Reiger on the system you have since all my earlier advice with the valving was before I knew the one side was re engineered.

i've got a '93 250 though but the part numbers are the same for the compression adjuster, soon will re valve it myself so i'll let you know fyi the compression stack, don't know if i'm gonna hassle with the rebound valving, kinda afraid to unpin the cartridge!

Do you have any unpinning idea's? might get around with the rebound too and give out you the info..