Posts
608
Joined
11/30/2009
Location
Lafayette, NJ
US
Edited Date/Time
3/12/2018 8:41am
After having just over 100 hours on my bike from last year, getting the bike ready for this upcoming season I thought I'd do a bit of a build for my website and put it along with my racing blog. I didn't go super overkill like I wanted to, and I don't have any finished pictures yet but woods bikes come together a little different than my moto bikes used to so it's cool in my opinion to see the little detail that go into a bike build. Read the whole blog post at my website www.racingtheclock.us or just check it out below.
Husky only makes a 300 version of the popular 300XC but I prefer a 250 so we cherry picked a top end off a TC250, Cylinder , Head, CDI box back when we first built the bike last year. The CDI makes the biggest difference out of all that stuff. We also adjust the powervalve internally, run the Red Powervalve spring, a Pro Circuit Silencer, and run a little extra compression. All which help with some much needed snap and overrev.
At the 100 hour mark, weve done 3 top ends, even if they weren't completely necessary every time, a set of steering stem bearings, linkage bearings once, and just normal offroad maintenance, brake and clutch fluids every 3 rides, oil changes, brakes, fork seals, wheel bearings, the typical stuff.
Still on the original clutch, and cylinder plating, same for the chain guides (minus a TM rear guide after I bent the stocker)
The stock cases when we pulled the motor on it were DINGY, a little elbow grease and some green scotchbrite helped on that front. It took about an hour to do the cases which wasnt bad but I didnt go too crazy and do underneath more than just get the heavy stuff off.
The swing arm actually go sandblasted when I took the frame to get powdercoated, I didnt want to powdercoat it for the fact it would just get destroyed so I just had him blast it to get the stains off and give it a brighter finish, I took green scotchbrite to it and then a brillo pad so take some of the porous finish off the sandblasting left. it came out good but its just gonna get destroyed again. The radiators had some oxidation on them so I did the same things and scotchbrited them, but then used a little semichrome to get them a little shinier than the rest of the bike. I think the way the factory guys do them is sick so I figured I'd give them a little love too.
We take a little bit of material off the Husky airbox so that we can do shock changes a little easier, just nipping that wing off gives us a little extra room to wiggle it out. Not that changing a shock is ever fun but we've had to do it at races before so its not a bad idea
Starting to reassemble the bike a quick dose of antisieze goes a long way on the chain adjuster bolts and some of the other stuff that doesnt get moved to frequently, getting frozen chain adjuster bolts out is a miserable task so we try and prevent it.
Another thing that is common place is just putting the footpeg pins on upsiide down, mostly just to keep it out of the way of the kickstand. We also have had issues in the past of throttles sticking from dirt getting sucked up the vent lines so we reroute them to the airbox (missing are the yellow hoses I replaced these with #factory)
Last year I switched to a 300 at the end of the year in search of more motor, I wasn;t really happy with the 300 after a few races so we decided to give the 250 motor a little more. We sent the cylinder and head to Jeff at PR2 racing and he did his magic, the head was drastically manipulated and the cylinder and powervalve was altered. When we got it back we went through the process of matching the cases, I wasn't allowed anywhere near my cases with a grinder. After matching the cases we replaced main bearing and seals, inspected the kicker and cleaned out the cases and began reassembly!
Some other little mods we do. After using a 2003 rear brake caliper for a few years I'm back to using the stock smaller caliper as i've stopped dragging the brakes as much. We did continue to use the brake line holder though as its longer and provides more support and little more protection in the event of something trying to snag it out of line or crashing. We also bolted back up my old WP A-kit forks from like 2010, I mostly use these for the extended offset that old axle gives. In the sand and faster races this bike will be used for I prefer the little extra stability and we've got years of development of valving in these forks (I will use the AERs on my other bike which will be primarily used in the rocky enduros and harescrambles, I prefer the supple feel of the airs and they were great in the slower technical terrain). Lastly, we trim the sharp edges off the air filter cage, over time I've seen the sharp edges cut and wear through the airfilters as they get softer from being cleaned over and over.
Sunstar hardened rear 51 tooth sprocket, wrapped with a sunstar o-ring chain. Paired up with the usual TM designs chainguides that take a beating offroad.
Also took scotchbrite and simichrome to the kicker, kickstand, brake pedal, shifter, and also wire wheeled the brake caliper hangers to get the corrosion off and some old crusty dirt.Shiny is nice but it wont stay shiny long.
Finally with the motor back in the frame and everything bolted together, time to add some of my favorite stuff! We run EVANS COOLANT in everything we own, 2 stroke or 4 storke. We've had such good luck with it over the years that we just can't think of using anything else. Also filling the gearbox up with SPECTRO 10w30 clutchsaver is a must.
You might be able to tell here but since I'ma brake dragger, a bad one, that we run solid rear rotors all season long. The extra metal must help keep temps down because it really does make a different in brake pad longevity and overheatting. Also have a variety of pads, from nonmetallic to the race compound depending on the day, most days I'll stick with non-metallics but in the faster races or longer days I'll use the race compound metals.
The bike is all back together now, But still looks like junk with old plastics and a beat up pipe and used tires. our first race is next weekend so it'll get all cleaned up again and I'll post some final pictures with graphics, plastics and all ready to go!
Husky only makes a 300 version of the popular 300XC but I prefer a 250 so we cherry picked a top end off a TC250, Cylinder , Head, CDI box back when we first built the bike last year. The CDI makes the biggest difference out of all that stuff. We also adjust the powervalve internally, run the Red Powervalve spring, a Pro Circuit Silencer, and run a little extra compression. All which help with some much needed snap and overrev.
At the 100 hour mark, weve done 3 top ends, even if they weren't completely necessary every time, a set of steering stem bearings, linkage bearings once, and just normal offroad maintenance, brake and clutch fluids every 3 rides, oil changes, brakes, fork seals, wheel bearings, the typical stuff.
Still on the original clutch, and cylinder plating, same for the chain guides (minus a TM rear guide after I bent the stocker)
The stock cases when we pulled the motor on it were DINGY, a little elbow grease and some green scotchbrite helped on that front. It took about an hour to do the cases which wasnt bad but I didnt go too crazy and do underneath more than just get the heavy stuff off.
The swing arm actually go sandblasted when I took the frame to get powdercoated, I didnt want to powdercoat it for the fact it would just get destroyed so I just had him blast it to get the stains off and give it a brighter finish, I took green scotchbrite to it and then a brillo pad so take some of the porous finish off the sandblasting left. it came out good but its just gonna get destroyed again. The radiators had some oxidation on them so I did the same things and scotchbrited them, but then used a little semichrome to get them a little shinier than the rest of the bike. I think the way the factory guys do them is sick so I figured I'd give them a little love too.
We take a little bit of material off the Husky airbox so that we can do shock changes a little easier, just nipping that wing off gives us a little extra room to wiggle it out. Not that changing a shock is ever fun but we've had to do it at races before so its not a bad idea
Starting to reassemble the bike a quick dose of antisieze goes a long way on the chain adjuster bolts and some of the other stuff that doesnt get moved to frequently, getting frozen chain adjuster bolts out is a miserable task so we try and prevent it.
Another thing that is common place is just putting the footpeg pins on upsiide down, mostly just to keep it out of the way of the kickstand. We also have had issues in the past of throttles sticking from dirt getting sucked up the vent lines so we reroute them to the airbox (missing are the yellow hoses I replaced these with #factory)
Last year I switched to a 300 at the end of the year in search of more motor, I wasn;t really happy with the 300 after a few races so we decided to give the 250 motor a little more. We sent the cylinder and head to Jeff at PR2 racing and he did his magic, the head was drastically manipulated and the cylinder and powervalve was altered. When we got it back we went through the process of matching the cases, I wasn't allowed anywhere near my cases with a grinder. After matching the cases we replaced main bearing and seals, inspected the kicker and cleaned out the cases and began reassembly!
Some other little mods we do. After using a 2003 rear brake caliper for a few years I'm back to using the stock smaller caliper as i've stopped dragging the brakes as much. We did continue to use the brake line holder though as its longer and provides more support and little more protection in the event of something trying to snag it out of line or crashing. We also bolted back up my old WP A-kit forks from like 2010, I mostly use these for the extended offset that old axle gives. In the sand and faster races this bike will be used for I prefer the little extra stability and we've got years of development of valving in these forks (I will use the AERs on my other bike which will be primarily used in the rocky enduros and harescrambles, I prefer the supple feel of the airs and they were great in the slower technical terrain). Lastly, we trim the sharp edges off the air filter cage, over time I've seen the sharp edges cut and wear through the airfilters as they get softer from being cleaned over and over.
Sunstar hardened rear 51 tooth sprocket, wrapped with a sunstar o-ring chain. Paired up with the usual TM designs chainguides that take a beating offroad.
Also took scotchbrite and simichrome to the kicker, kickstand, brake pedal, shifter, and also wire wheeled the brake caliper hangers to get the corrosion off and some old crusty dirt.Shiny is nice but it wont stay shiny long.
Finally with the motor back in the frame and everything bolted together, time to add some of my favorite stuff! We run EVANS COOLANT in everything we own, 2 stroke or 4 storke. We've had such good luck with it over the years that we just can't think of using anything else. Also filling the gearbox up with SPECTRO 10w30 clutchsaver is a must.
You might be able to tell here but since I'ma brake dragger, a bad one, that we run solid rear rotors all season long. The extra metal must help keep temps down because it really does make a different in brake pad longevity and overheatting. Also have a variety of pads, from nonmetallic to the race compound depending on the day, most days I'll stick with non-metallics but in the faster races or longer days I'll use the race compound metals.
The bike is all back together now, But still looks like junk with old plastics and a beat up pipe and used tires. our first race is next weekend so it'll get all cleaned up again and I'll post some final pictures with graphics, plastics and all ready to go!
I have a TX300 cylinder/head/CDI on my TC250 now. The TC250 CDI on the 300 kit hit harder and didn't seem to rev out as far as the TX CDI. Power is very similar to the TC250 with the full TX setup, but has a little more everywhere. It's nice. I don't think I'd want the TX CDI on a 250 setup though.
The Shop
Thanks for looking along!
-Sean
I'm running an SX CDI on mine and thought it helped give a little overrev. Its definitely more snappy. The PC pipe and factory sound silencer helped as well.
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