Posts
586
Joined
12/17/2009
Location
WV
US
Fantasy
1304th
Edited Date/Time
3/26/2018 1:34pm
Yes I realize that this is a little different than what usually is posted on vital. A build on a Chinese pit bike. I never imagined myself with one of these in my stable. But here we are!
I seen a pit bike race at Unadillia a few weeks ago and decided that this is something I wanted to try. So here I sit with a delivery of a Pitster Pro LXR190F 14/12 in my driveway last Friday.
I bought this over a build up of a KLX110 (or similar type) for a couple reasons. For what I was getting for 2500 bux I could not duplicate with a Jap build. Not even close. A built up 110 at 190cc I do no think will be reliable either. Who knows, this machine may be a complete turd. I suppose that is to be determined. Also the specs at Pitsters website. It seems like I am getting a lot of standard equipment that is stock, compared to other machines in this cc/price point range. Plus I am getting a 5 speed tranny and electric start.
This was purchased from:
Shawn Lowe
The Pitbike Dr.
2127 Dayton Rd
Newark , OH 43055
740-345-5693
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/MxpitbikeDR/
Shawn seemed to be very knowledgeable and answered my questions with what I consider a authoritative manor. Seemed to know his way around a Chinese machine. I hope he did not steer me wrong! It is also quite possible that I did not ask the right questions. More on this in a later installment.
http://www.pitsterpro.com/bike/specs/id/87
This is how the bike arrived.
As you can see, the bottom of the crate is pretty mangled. This could have been avoided by using stand offs on the bottom of the crate so the fork lift could get under it. As it is now the bottom of the crate sits flush with ground. The fork lift operator just plunged in from the side. Lucky no damage was found. Thanks Old Dominion, and some of the blame has to go to Pitster for a sub-par crate design.
Also of note: Right off the bat I spotted a missing tank shroud... I thought... REALLY?
I uncrated the machine and put it on my lift.
The pieces parts were securely fastened to the crate and were well protected. No dents or scratches were present. I was surprised, considering the damage to the very mangled, very thin gauge crate.
The assembly
Be forewarned. Although there is an owners manual, it says nothing about the assembly process. Actually it says a bunch of stuff, none of which I have used as this has been typed. Pretty useless. You do get a screwdriver and a spark plug extracting tool. Oh and a pouch for the tools.
Oh, seems like the factory decided to go on a cost cutting spree by not welding nuts on the frame. Some fasteners that go through the frame you have to fiddle with a nut.. tisk tisk... Speaking of bolts, I hate allen bolts. I really do. They pack up with dirt & are a PITA to get out in the field. This machine is littered with metric allens. The heads of other bolts are 8, 10, 12, one 13 (kickstarter), 14, 17, 19 and 27 mm bolts/nuts.
When you buy a Chinese machine, you the end user, are the setup mechanic. Every nut and bolt needs checked, as well as all bearings need greased. I am not going into the set up process in general. Although there are some items that are worth mentioning.
The rear brake pedal needs to be massaged for my taste. As of right now I cannot see how the spring would work. I am in the process of modding that. While we are on the subject of brake pedal, there is an extreme amount of play in the rear brake master clevis to pedal pin. I ended up machining a new larger diameter pin & drilling out the clevis. There is an excessive amount of play in the pedal to frame mounting area. For right now I am living with this.
Check the valves. Mine were tight as hell. Set to 4 thousandths intake and 6 exhaust.
Whoever thought up of the front number plate mounting must have had a hangover. Two brackets and six bolts later and I was ready for a shot myself!
The seat has 3 bolts to remove. The rear fender is bolted onto the back of the seat. Seems like a better design could be had. You have to remove the seat for shock dampening changes (compression).
I center drilled the rear axle & swingarm bolt so I could align the rear wheel with the swingarm pivot bolt.
Not really happy with the shifter. Seems like it is going to be in the way of my boot. Or the boot is going to be in the way of the shifter. I will ride the bike & make a decision.
I took off the kick starter. Seems like the kicker will get in the way of the boot. I have an electric spinner anyway, right?
Does come with Pro Taper grips, and Maxxis intermediate tires. Oh, as an added bonus, included at no extra charge, a NGK CR9E! Woo hoo!
This bike does have a key ignition. It is also wired for lights. I plan on eliminating as much wiring as possible, that is if I like the bike on the track. I also want to replace the oil in the forks as well as the brake fluid in the very near future.
Also I am replacing the chain with my fav brand Regina. I noticed some of the bikes that raced at 'Dillia, had a high chain failure rate. There were several new bikes there, sold at the track by a vendor. Brand SSR.
As I stated earlier, I am missing the left tank shroud and graphics. I also found a front brake caliper bolt missing. Texted Shawn today & he said he would get right on it! Good man...
Only thing left to do is change out the fish oil in the tranny and fire it up.
This pic is of this writing. No protective paper has been taken off the graphics yet...
I do have some other issues, but I will wait until I call the manufacturer. Will be back when I have more to report!
I seen a pit bike race at Unadillia a few weeks ago and decided that this is something I wanted to try. So here I sit with a delivery of a Pitster Pro LXR190F 14/12 in my driveway last Friday.
I bought this over a build up of a KLX110 (or similar type) for a couple reasons. For what I was getting for 2500 bux I could not duplicate with a Jap build. Not even close. A built up 110 at 190cc I do no think will be reliable either. Who knows, this machine may be a complete turd. I suppose that is to be determined. Also the specs at Pitsters website. It seems like I am getting a lot of standard equipment that is stock, compared to other machines in this cc/price point range. Plus I am getting a 5 speed tranny and electric start.
This was purchased from:
Shawn Lowe
The Pitbike Dr.
2127 Dayton Rd
Newark , OH 43055
740-345-5693
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/MxpitbikeDR/
Shawn seemed to be very knowledgeable and answered my questions with what I consider a authoritative manor. Seemed to know his way around a Chinese machine. I hope he did not steer me wrong! It is also quite possible that I did not ask the right questions. More on this in a later installment.
http://www.pitsterpro.com/bike/specs/id/87
This is how the bike arrived.
As you can see, the bottom of the crate is pretty mangled. This could have been avoided by using stand offs on the bottom of the crate so the fork lift could get under it. As it is now the bottom of the crate sits flush with ground. The fork lift operator just plunged in from the side. Lucky no damage was found. Thanks Old Dominion, and some of the blame has to go to Pitster for a sub-par crate design.
Also of note: Right off the bat I spotted a missing tank shroud... I thought... REALLY?
I uncrated the machine and put it on my lift.
The pieces parts were securely fastened to the crate and were well protected. No dents or scratches were present. I was surprised, considering the damage to the very mangled, very thin gauge crate.
The assembly
Be forewarned. Although there is an owners manual, it says nothing about the assembly process. Actually it says a bunch of stuff, none of which I have used as this has been typed. Pretty useless. You do get a screwdriver and a spark plug extracting tool. Oh and a pouch for the tools.
Oh, seems like the factory decided to go on a cost cutting spree by not welding nuts on the frame. Some fasteners that go through the frame you have to fiddle with a nut.. tisk tisk... Speaking of bolts, I hate allen bolts. I really do. They pack up with dirt & are a PITA to get out in the field. This machine is littered with metric allens. The heads of other bolts are 8, 10, 12, one 13 (kickstarter), 14, 17, 19 and 27 mm bolts/nuts.
When you buy a Chinese machine, you the end user, are the setup mechanic. Every nut and bolt needs checked, as well as all bearings need greased. I am not going into the set up process in general. Although there are some items that are worth mentioning.
The rear brake pedal needs to be massaged for my taste. As of right now I cannot see how the spring would work. I am in the process of modding that. While we are on the subject of brake pedal, there is an extreme amount of play in the rear brake master clevis to pedal pin. I ended up machining a new larger diameter pin & drilling out the clevis. There is an excessive amount of play in the pedal to frame mounting area. For right now I am living with this.
Check the valves. Mine were tight as hell. Set to 4 thousandths intake and 6 exhaust.
Whoever thought up of the front number plate mounting must have had a hangover. Two brackets and six bolts later and I was ready for a shot myself!
The seat has 3 bolts to remove. The rear fender is bolted onto the back of the seat. Seems like a better design could be had. You have to remove the seat for shock dampening changes (compression).
I center drilled the rear axle & swingarm bolt so I could align the rear wheel with the swingarm pivot bolt.
Not really happy with the shifter. Seems like it is going to be in the way of my boot. Or the boot is going to be in the way of the shifter. I will ride the bike & make a decision.
I took off the kick starter. Seems like the kicker will get in the way of the boot. I have an electric spinner anyway, right?
Does come with Pro Taper grips, and Maxxis intermediate tires. Oh, as an added bonus, included at no extra charge, a NGK CR9E! Woo hoo!
This bike does have a key ignition. It is also wired for lights. I plan on eliminating as much wiring as possible, that is if I like the bike on the track. I also want to replace the oil in the forks as well as the brake fluid in the very near future.
Also I am replacing the chain with my fav brand Regina. I noticed some of the bikes that raced at 'Dillia, had a high chain failure rate. There were several new bikes there, sold at the track by a vendor. Brand SSR.
As I stated earlier, I am missing the left tank shroud and graphics. I also found a front brake caliper bolt missing. Texted Shawn today & he said he would get right on it! Good man...
Only thing left to do is change out the fish oil in the tranny and fire it up.
This pic is of this writing. No protective paper has been taken off the graphics yet...
I do have some other issues, but I will wait until I call the manufacturer. Will be back when I have more to report!
What oil filter you run? Something local?
Does the CRF110 plastics fit? I was wanting to change it up a bit. Just wondering if the tank, fenders & side panels were an exact fit.
Any other words of wisdom? I am ALL ears!!
Thanks in advance for the info. I am a newbie here!!!
The Shop
I am surprised on the exhaust note and throttle response (on the stand). Sounds and feels just like my 250F. Of course I do not expect it to run like it. It does sound good though!
Trying to find a spot for the hour meter. I shall sleep on it.
I have been under the weather for the past week or so, so I really do not feel like riding right now. Hopefully sometime this week.
'Till I have more...
The Daytona, although a 4 valve, does not have a 5 speed and electric start. The Zongshen's tranny is 1 down 4 up. I likie that feature. Electric start to boot. If I need more oomph a Daytona 212 kit & a 4 valve head will be in order (I was told this SHOULD work). Seems I am getting a lot of answers that end in "this should work"!
Another reason I went with the Zongshen is the previously mentioned electric start. I have read of many side cases broken on the larger displacement motors. Seems on the bigger motors you have a certain way to kick start the motor. Something like bring it just past TDC & kick with authority. If you are weak with the kick these motors are also kicking back & destroying the cases/kicker gears too. Now this is what I have read on the interwebs. We all know there is nothing but truth on the internet...
I am looking for another intake manifold / air cleaner. This air cleaner is not up to my standards. So far I am coming up empty. Maybe a straighter shot/shorter manifold would give me more room for another type air cleaner. The search continues.
Anybody have a good online vendor to view/buy from? I am having a hard time finding vendors for this type of machine. Even Pitsters website does not have an online parts fische for this bike. Too new I was told.
I did figure out a place for the hour meter this morning. A good nights sleep always brings things into perspective.
I had a pitster 150 a few year ago, kid and I had a blast on it. As you found out, I also changed out a bunch of fasteners.
Daytona has a 4-speed E-start 190 (4v) they are getting ready to release this fall. The 5 speed Daytona tried as a kit with new trans and case halves but had reoccurring issues with cracking the cases on down shifts and discontinued the parts.... That said your ZS is not immune from the kickback/crack cases issue you mention about the Daytona version. I suggest running a digital CDI that retards the timing for start-up and helps decrease kickback. Also DO NOT give it any gas while kicking it and if the kicker wants to come back up, be in a position that will allow for your leg to get out of the way, or at least able to ride the kickstart back up.
The 4v head and 212 kit will fit the zonger bottom end but the heads are expensive to piece together and is upwards of $1000 extra in the parts
The Intake is going to be difficult to find, Wholesale-cycle has 1 other option that will fit but otherwise cutting and welding will be the only way.
Wholesale-cycle
TBolt USA
^^^^ are going to be your best option for aftermarket/cross referenced parts. But Pitster should be able to get you everything you need, just might require you calling up there to get it over the phone v.s their website.
That is one reason I decided on E start. I already took my kick starter off.
Where would I source this digital CDI? Link please!?
Mucho Thanks in advance.
http://wholesale-cycle.com/product/4192/Digital-5-pin-CDI/
https://tboltusa.com/store/trc-ez-start-high-performance-cdi-p-9745.html
Intake: http://wholesale-cycle.com/product/6190/P190-4V-INTAKE-MANIFOLD-2017/
^^after looking at the photos I don't think this will make your carb/filter fitment any better
--------
I haven't had much luck finding a better shifter that will fit around the stator cover.
>If you have not already, pull the stem out of the frame and grease the taper bearings, any pivots or axle really.
>hit the wheels with a spoke wrench and do that 2-3 more times the next couple rides.
> make sure the crankcase vent hose is unimpeded - they build quite a bit of crankcase pressure and will push oil out other places if the hose is not wide open
>LOCKTIGHT- nothing has lock tight on it - and any of those chrome Allen head bolts will rust if water is allowed to settle in them (You mentioned replacing these anyway - highly suggested)
> trimming the harness is pretty self explanatory
>that hour meter mount looks like a good way to get stiches put in your leg, I double-side tape them to the top of the oil cooler.
Have Fun!
I really appreciate sharing you knowledge about these machines. Keep those words of wisdom coming.
I have popped off the wheel bearing seals & applied grease to those. Along with the Hiems in the shock, swing arm bolt and axles have been greased. Stem bearings s well.
Good catch on the spokes. Have not touched them, I had planned on massaging them after the first ride.
At this point I have not used Loctite on anything. I am waiting for the first ride in my field to see if this bike will be worth the effort of fastener replacement. I am not a big fan of loctite on my MX machines, OR Allen bolts.
I will reconsider my placement of the hour meter. More sleep is necessary!
I did take the bike out in a grassy field last night. Put about 7 minutes on it before I ran out of gas. BTW this does have a reserve petcock.
Seems to have some smoke. Did not really rev it out. Good bottom end from what I can tell. A healthy mid to boot. I will put on another heat cycle then test out the top end.
SO far it is a keeper!
Pit Row
Any ideas on the miss? Happens around 5-7000 rpm. I suppose I need to start replacing the electrics. Coil, CDI, stator etc.
I am in the process of rewiring this bike. Getting rid of the ignition switch and left bar controls. Will be adding a right bar starter switch, and on the left bar a lighted toggle switch. In eliminating the left hand bard switches I can use my fav levers. ASV
Waiting on parts to arrive so I can test out the "miss" again.
From their web page:
Pro Clutch Perch W/ Quick Adjust and Folding Levers: Standard
Rear shock w/ dual high/low speed comp. adj. and rebound: Standard
FEATURES NOT FOUND ON OUR COMPETITION
Carburetion jetting kit: Standard
Integrated air box: Standard
Progressive Link Suspension: Standard (Shawn told me no linkage b4 I purchased)
Frame Guards: Standard
Stainless Steel Fasteners: Standard
Upper and lower chain roller wheels: Standard (no upper roller)
The above items are not present on my machine. Web sits says they are suppose to be there. Must have got lost in transit.
Other things wrong:
Came with a 28mm carb instead of a 26. (Jingke)
428 chain instead of a 420 (good thing)
I did call the factory and voice my displeasure. They said the web site was wrong. Yeah, obviously...
I do have a thread over at planet minis. http://planetminis.com/forums/chinese-import-minis-general-discussion/2…
Sorry, I just had to vent.
Time for an update.
No wiring diagram was to be found for the LXR190F. So I Cut off the protective loom and drew my own. I proceeded to loose about a pound of wiring and all stock switches and keyed ignition were tossed. I had to toss the left handlebar switches because they interfered with the ASV pro perch I wanted to use. It was actually fun, and I only blew one fuse! LOL
I replaced the stock switches with a kill button on the left bar & a start button on the right. I am adding a lighted rocker switch to replace the keyed ignition switch. I still have 2 switches to come in (version 2 design) and then it will be complete. I also used chassis grounds instead of one ground wire that splits off to all the necessary electronic items (CDI, coil etc.). What a cluster Fu*k that was.
I also oiled my filter. Did not touch the carb. I did pull out the backfire screen that was in the filter.
I just rode it briefly this evening & my top end miss SEEMS to have vanished. Do not quite understand why. Updated wiring? Oiled filter? Backfire screen? Dono. Kinda puzzled in a good way.
The plan is to take it to High Point Raceway in PA. this Saturday & do some more jetting and suspension tuning. They are having a ride day in the morning with a vet race in the afternoon. Who knows I might race it against the modern machinery (250 & 450's) in the +55 class. Wouldn't that be a hoot!
i rode a x2 140r 12/10 about daily for a year, then alternated it with an x5 155 14/12. they both ran for somewhere around a year with heavy, constant use. i did blow the stock rear shock on the 155, and eventually started having a bunch of issues with the 140r (which i should note is like 6 years old, bought it used and stored it a couple years before using heavily). i have no idea how many hours i have on the bikes, but it's a lot.
i'm 6'2 250lbs & love these bikes. i think i'm going to try to finally fix the 140r & sell it (moved where i have no land, so no real use), but i'll be holding onto the 155 until i eventually replace it with whatever their newest 190 is at the time.
I would say shifting is an adventure for my size 9's. I can only imagine a bigger foot in there. I have been using a custom "bend" in the stocker to accommodate my boot. Still tweaking it every time I ride. If you find a suitable replacement please do share.
This kick starter tucks in really well.
If you’re on Facebook, they have a planetminis group going now since the PM site kinda died off.
Take this with a grain of salt, but I haven’t heard great things about that “Pitbike Dr” guy. I’ve never dealt with him, but a few guys on the PM Facebook page have posted up not so good reviews of him.
I do like message boards. Searchable (usually with varied results), PDF files, ect. I suppose I am the older generation. I just cannot get into facebook groups even though I am a member of several. To me its just a way to waste time.
The person you mention, "The Pitbike Dr." has fallen short of my expectations on a couple occasions. I won't bad mouth the guy on any particular instance, but I do feel he could have had a couple better answers to my questions or concerns.
I will say the Pitster factory in Utah has been very good to deal with. Parts seem to be available at a reasonable price.
My biggest complaint stems from the horrible web site. Fisches are out of date. Cannot look up parts. Have to call them for everything. Not cool in this day & age.
I feel the biggest prob with the LXR190 is the china knock off carb of the Keihin. I will probably replace the stocker with the real deal at some point.
Keep me in the loop, please.
Post a reply to: New to Pit Bikes? 2018 Pitster Pro LXR 190F Build/Assembly