Let's see/review those 2019 kx450s

MX683 wrote:

This is just my experience that I thought that I would share in case it helps somebody out. If you are close minded, then it sucks...

This is just my experience that I thought that I would share in case it helps somebody out. If you are close minded, then it sucks to be you.

MX683 wrote:

This is just my experience that I thought that I would share in case it helps somebody out. If you are close minded, then it sucks...

This is just my experience that I thought that I would share in case it helps somebody out. If you are close minded, then it sucks to be you.

Titan777 wrote:

Why won't you post your KX broken rod and engine in pieces?

MX683 wrote:

This is just my experience that I thought that I would share in case it helps somebody out. If you are close minded, then it sucks...

This is just my experience that I thought that I would share in case it helps somebody out. If you are close minded, then it sucks to be you.

Titan777 wrote:

Why won't you post your KX broken rod and engine in pieces?

soggy wrote:

chill dude, why do you think he is lying?

MX683 wrote:

This is just my experience that I thought that I would share in case it helps somebody out. If you are close minded, then it sucks...

This is just my experience that I thought that I would share in case it helps somebody out. If you are close minded, then it sucks to be you.

Titan777 wrote:

Why won't you post your KX broken rod and engine in pieces?

quadzrulebro wrote:

I’ll be picking up a brand new 2019 as soon as the trucking company drops it off. I have already purchased a TM Slide and Glide...

I’ll be picking up a brand new 2019 as soon as the trucking company drops it off. I have already purchased a TM Slide and Glide kit, and I know the stock chain and sprocket wear like butter, so I want to get a Dirt Tricks sprocket set on order along with an X-ring chain. I race +40 B and would prefer to use 3rd gear in as many corners as I can. What size rear sprocket do you recommend?

MX683 wrote:

These were all oem wrist pins on 2010 thru 2012 kx250fs. I learned that it is important to have .001" clearance to rod with no bushing...

These were all oem wrist pins on 2010 thru 2012 kx250fs. I learned that it is important to have .001" clearance to rod with no bushing and .0005" to rod with a bushing. The bushings has lubricity where the rod with no bushing can smear the metal. If there isn't enough clearance, you can have 2 different riders, depending on how they run the throttle, one will heat things up and break the rod and the other will be fine. Many other things can contribute to heating up the wrist pin...such as aftermarket exhaust, gearing, mapping, fuel etc.The most reliable way to prevent this potential failure is to have the rod honed for the correct clearance. I bring my rods to a car race shop. I asked the tech there if he ever hones rods for wrist pin clearance and he said " only about 20 a day"

Titan777 wrote:

So basically you can't post any photos of what you are claiming?

MX683 wrote:

This is just my experience that I thought that I would share in case it helps somebody out. If you are close minded, then it sucks...

This is just my experience that I thought that I would share in case it helps somebody out. If you are close minded, then it sucks to be you.

Titan777 wrote:

Why won't you post your KX broken rod and engine in pieces?

Slaughter612s wrote:

I was there. Helped push it off the track. Just fortunate it happened where it happened. Cheers

Titan777 wrote:

Why won't you post your KX broken rod and engine in pieces?

soggy wrote:

chill dude, why do you think he is lying?

MX683 wrote:

Take your pick
(1) I didn't take pictures 7 plus years ago...so I must be lying
(2) Somebody feels threatened....because they thought they knew everything

quadzrulebro wrote:

I’ll be picking up a brand new 2019 as soon as the trucking company drops it off. I have already purchased a TM Slide and Glide...

I’ll be picking up a brand new 2019 as soon as the trucking company drops it off. I have already purchased a TM Slide and Glide kit, and I know the stock chain and sprocket wear like butter, so I want to get a Dirt Tricks sprocket set on order along with an X-ring chain. I race +40 B and would prefer to use 3rd gear in as many corners as I can. What size rear sprocket do you recommend?

crc245 wrote:

For more 3rd gear usability, go +1 on the rear (from 13-50 to 13-51). I'd throw some extra links on the chain to scoot it further...

For more 3rd gear usability, go +1 on the rear (from 13-50 to 13-51). I'd throw some extra links on the chain to scoot it further rearward as well. Congrats on the new ride!

Also, the longer header options are best for low to mid and adding some torque. We've had great luck with the full Yoshimura system over either the Gen1 short header FMF or PC options.

Titan777 wrote:

Why won't you post your KX broken rod and engine in pieces?

soggy wrote:

chill dude, why do you think he is lying?

MX683 wrote:

Take your pick
(1) I didn't take pictures 7 plus years ago...so I must be lying
(2) Somebody feels threatened....because they thought they knew everything

soggy wrote:

chill dude, why do you think he is lying?

MX683 wrote:

Take your pick
(1) I didn't take pictures 7 plus years ago...so I must be lying
(2) Somebody feels threatened....because they thought they knew everything

Titan777 wrote:

I'm not saying you're lying. It was 8 years ago so it has nothing to do with this thread. That was my point. No hard feelings...

I'm not saying you're lying. It was 8 years ago so it has nothing to do with this thread. That was my point.
No hard feelings 🤗

soggy wrote:

chill dude, why do you think he is lying?

MX683 wrote:

Take your pick
(1) I didn't take pictures 7 plus years ago...so I must be lying
(2) Somebody feels threatened....because they thought they knew everything

Nystrom7 wrote:

250f 2010-2012 you said. Honestly how is that relevant to 19/20 450? Several engine generations later and 450 not 250. Some bikes breaks but this rod...

250f 2010-2012 you said.

Honestly how is that relevant to 19/20 450? Several engine generations later and 450 not 250.
Some bikes breaks but this rod problem 8-10 years ago on 250f dosent seem common on 19/20 450.

I also question, if the pin is so tight why would it take over 100 hours to break? It would lock up pretty quick if it gets hot?

I get the feeling that you are trying to talk down in these bikes.

quadzrulebro wrote:

I’ll be picking up a brand new 2019 as soon as the trucking company drops it off. I have already purchased a TM Slide and Glide...

I’ll be picking up a brand new 2019 as soon as the trucking company drops it off. I have already purchased a TM Slide and Glide kit, and I know the stock chain and sprocket wear like butter, so I want to get a Dirt Tricks sprocket set on order along with an X-ring chain. I race +40 B and would prefer to use 3rd gear in as many corners as I can. What size rear sprocket do you recommend?

crc245 wrote:

For more 3rd gear usability, go +1 on the rear (from 13-50 to 13-51). I'd throw some extra links on the chain to scoot it further...

For more 3rd gear usability, go +1 on the rear (from 13-50 to 13-51). I'd throw some extra links on the chain to scoot it further rearward as well. Congrats on the new ride!

Also, the longer header options are best for low to mid and adding some torque. We've had great luck with the full Yoshimura system over either the Gen1 short header FMF or PC options.

navalseabee wrote:

+1 for 51 rear. Add Bill's Pipes to the list, long header, double rubber mounted, excellent sound and fit and fishish as good as the 1k...

+1 for 51 rear.
Add Bill's Pipes to the list, long header, double rubber mounted, excellent sound and fit and fishish as good as the 1k plus pipes.

MX683 wrote:

same flawed design in all 4 strokes
the galling of metal can decrease clearance
not talking down these bikes...this can happen to other bikes as well

MX683 wrote:

same flawed design in all 4 strokes
the galling of metal can decrease clearance
not talking down these bikes...this can happen to other bikes as well

Titan777 wrote:

Thanks for your help though.

I wonder why they don't change the design, or they're unaware of the flaw?

quadzrulebro wrote:

I’ll be picking up a brand new 2019 as soon as the trucking company drops it off. I have already purchased a TM Slide and Glide...

I’ll be picking up a brand new 2019 as soon as the trucking company drops it off. I have already purchased a TM Slide and Glide kit, and I know the stock chain and sprocket wear like butter, so I want to get a Dirt Tricks sprocket set on order along with an X-ring chain. I race +40 B and would prefer to use 3rd gear in as many corners as I can. What size rear sprocket do you recommend?

crc245 wrote:

For more 3rd gear usability, go +1 on the rear (from 13-50 to 13-51). I'd throw some extra links on the chain to scoot it further...

For more 3rd gear usability, go +1 on the rear (from 13-50 to 13-51). I'd throw some extra links on the chain to scoot it further rearward as well. Congrats on the new ride!

Also, the longer header options are best for low to mid and adding some torque. We've had great luck with the full Yoshimura system over either the Gen1 short header FMF or PC options.

quadzrulebro wrote:

I’ll be picking up a brand new 2019 as soon as the trucking company drops it off. I have already purchased a TM Slide and Glide...

I’ll be picking up a brand new 2019 as soon as the trucking company drops it off. I have already purchased a TM Slide and Glide kit, and I know the stock chain and sprocket wear like butter, so I want to get a Dirt Tricks sprocket set on order along with an X-ring chain. I race +40 B and would prefer to use 3rd gear in as many corners as I can. What size rear sprocket do you recommend?

crc245 wrote:

For more 3rd gear usability, go +1 on the rear (from 13-50 to 13-51). I'd throw some extra links on the chain to scoot it further...

For more 3rd gear usability, go +1 on the rear (from 13-50 to 13-51). I'd throw some extra links on the chain to scoot it further rearward as well. Congrats on the new ride!

Also, the longer header options are best for low to mid and adding some torque. We've had great luck with the full Yoshimura system over either the Gen1 short header FMF or PC options.

Zeke27G wrote:

x2, I'm running 13/50 myself and I'm able to pull third out of most corners as long as I'm on the pipe. Don't have any feedback...

x2, I'm running 13/50 myself and I'm able to pull third out of most corners as long as I'm on the pipe. Don't have any feedback on the Yosh system, but I'm happy with my PC system currently.

One of the biggest mods that helped me was going to the rear caliper hanger from the previous year and a 240mm rotor. Also cutting down the rear master cylinder stud to allow the break pedal to be angled down further. The stock set up is way too sensitive and over powered in my opinion.

Brad Company wrote:

I ordered a service manual but it's been stuck at the Wisconsin distribution center for weeks now. I just want to do a top end. Anyone...

I ordered a service manual but it's been stuck at the Wisconsin distribution center for weeks now. I just want to do a top end. Anyone have the torque specs for the cams, cylinder and head?

Zeke27G wrote:

x2, I'm running 13/50 myself and I'm able to pull third out of most corners as long as I'm on the pipe. Don't have any feedback...

x2, I'm running 13/50 myself and I'm able to pull third out of most corners as long as I'm on the pipe. Don't have any feedback on the Yosh system, but I'm happy with my PC system currently.

One of the biggest mods that helped me was going to the rear caliper hanger from the previous year and a 240mm rotor. Also cutting down the rear master cylinder stud to allow the break pedal to be angled down further. The stock set up is way too sensitive and over powered in my opinion.

Brad Company wrote:

I ordered a service manual but it's been stuck at the Wisconsin distribution center for weeks now. I just want to do a top end. Anyone...

I ordered a service manual but it's been stuck at the Wisconsin distribution center for weeks now. I just want to do a top end. Anyone have the torque specs for the cams, cylinder and head?

quadzrulebro wrote:

Camshaft cap bolts 89 in/lbs
Cylinder head bolts 44 ft/lbs
Cylinder bolts 11 ft/lbs
Small cylinder head bolts 11 ft/lbs

Brad Company wrote:

I ordered a service manual but it's been stuck at the Wisconsin distribution center for weeks now. I just want to do a top end. Anyone...

I ordered a service manual but it's been stuck at the Wisconsin distribution center for weeks now. I just want to do a top end. Anyone have the torque specs for the cams, cylinder and head?

quadzrulebro wrote:

Camshaft cap bolts 89 in/lbs
Cylinder head bolts 44 ft/lbs
Cylinder bolts 11 ft/lbs
Small cylinder head bolts 11 ft/lbs

Brad Company wrote:

Thanks quadbro!

stax199 wrote:

anyone running or have link to cutch and brake master cylinder on the handle bars??? I see cool little covers for the euro bikes but nothing...

anyone running or have link to cutch and brake master cylinder on the handle bars??? I see cool little covers for the euro bikes but nothing for these KXs..

datkin128 wrote:

Are u talking reservoir caps or the carbon covers like Eli and company run?

stax199 wrote:

yes... assume they have team issue factory stuff, was hoping for aftermarket.

stax199 wrote:

Good intel.. is your PC exhaust rubber mounted? if so does PC sell em with rubber mounting piece in bracket?

Daddyfatsac wrote:

[img]https://p.vitalmx.com/photos/forums/2020/03/30/414975/s1200_Screenshot_20200330_210301_Gallery.jpg[/img] [img]https://p.vitalmx.com/photos/forums/2020/03/30/414976/s1200_Screenshot_20200330_210144_Gallery.jpg[/img] [img]https://p.vitalmx.com/photos/forums/2020/03/30/414989/s1200_20200315_155301.jpg[/img] [img]https://p.vitalmx.com/photos/forums/2020/03/30/414990/s1200_20200315_160603.jpg[/img] After reading so many great things about the new gen KX I couldn't resist. I made the switch from a 16 350...

After reading so many great things about the new gen KX I couldn't resist. I made the switch from a 16 350 SXF with SSS Conversion to a 19 KX 450. Pics are from the first ride yesterday. Only aftermarket part is the FMF. Running the green coupler.

Ripped it down to grease and dropped in one 52 fork spring. The bike is unbelievably good!

I am hearing the "ticking" that I've seen others discuss earlier in this thread and It's loud! I couldn't find where it was brought up before so I was hoping someone could fill me in? I think most believed it was due to the new "fingers" in the motor and that it was normal. Oil level is on the high side of the window. Should I be worried or make any changes?

Daddyfatsac wrote:

[img]https://p.vitalmx.com/photos/forums/2020/03/30/414975/s1200_Screenshot_20200330_210301_Gallery.jpg[/img] [img]https://p.vitalmx.com/photos/forums/2020/03/30/414976/s1200_Screenshot_20200330_210144_Gallery.jpg[/img] [img]https://p.vitalmx.com/photos/forums/2020/03/30/414989/s1200_20200315_155301.jpg[/img] [img]https://p.vitalmx.com/photos/forums/2020/03/30/414990/s1200_20200315_160603.jpg[/img] After reading so many great things about the new gen KX I couldn't resist. I made the switch from a 16 350...

After reading so many great things about the new gen KX I couldn't resist. I made the switch from a 16 350 SXF with SSS Conversion to a 19 KX 450. Pics are from the first ride yesterday. Only aftermarket part is the FMF. Running the green coupler.

Ripped it down to grease and dropped in one 52 fork spring. The bike is unbelievably good!

I am hearing the "ticking" that I've seen others discuss earlier in this thread and It's loud! I couldn't find where it was brought up before so I was hoping someone could fill me in? I think most believed it was due to the new "fingers" in the motor and that it was normal. Oil level is on the high side of the window. Should I be worried or make any changes?