2001 honda cr250 case crack help?

bigboar
Posts
108
Joined
7/21/2013
Location
Hamilton, OH US
Edited Date/Time 12/11/2014 9:17pm
Hey all, got around to soda blasting my cases today and notice a small crack by the bearing opening in my right crankcase half. I am curious as to what your opinions are on what i should do. I had someone tell me that when i install new bearings in the cases to use the loctite for bearings and that it would be fine but i am curious if anyone has went that route or any other route for a crack like this or did you buy a new case half?
I am hoping i dont need to buy a right case because i already had bought a complete engine bearing kit and it will be a waste if i have to buy a new case half since they come installed. I have found the new half for $260 shipped from partzilla and i did see a used one on ebay but he wanted $200 for it and there is no way i would spend that much for a used one. Any help appreciated!





|
dogger315
Posts
309
Joined
11/22/2010
Location
CA US
12/10/2014 11:27pm
From the wear marks in your last picture, it looks like the CS bearing has been spinning for some time.
Loctite 641 or even 640 will probably not be enough to compensate for the loose fit, especially with a crack
still present. Loctite bearing retainer is designed more to keep a snug fitting bearing from spinning, not to
retain a bearing in a hogged out mount.

If you feel like putting the time and effort into it, you could weld the crack and then weld a bead around the bearing
mount, then machine the bearing mount back to OE spec. That's the only way I know to repair it correctly. If it was
mine, I would chunk it and buy a new one.

The new bearings you just bought will make good replacements when rebuild time comes.

dogger
bigboar
Posts
108
Joined
7/21/2013
Location
Hamilton, OH US
12/11/2014 10:12am Edited Date/Time 12/11/2014 10:20am
dogger315 wrote:
From the wear marks in your last picture, it looks like the CS bearing has been spinning for some time. Loctite 641 or even 640 will...
From the wear marks in your last picture, it looks like the CS bearing has been spinning for some time.
Loctite 641 or even 640 will probably not be enough to compensate for the loose fit, especially with a crack
still present. Loctite bearing retainer is designed more to keep a snug fitting bearing from spinning, not to
retain a bearing in a hogged out mount.

If you feel like putting the time and effort into it, you could weld the crack and then weld a bead around the bearing
mount, then machine the bearing mount back to OE spec. That's the only way I know to repair it correctly. If it was
mine, I would chunk it and buy a new one.

The new bearings you just bought will make good replacements when rebuild time comes.

dogger
thanks dogger,
I was all ready to give in and buy a case but I decicded to take it to a machine shop today first. They can weld up the crack and after checking the clearance they thought a new bearing would be fine along with the use of loctite 680(whatever that is). He guaranteed the bearing would never spin in housing again but he also said that when it came time to replace bearings the next go around that I might would have have to buy a right case then because it would be near impossible to get that bearing back out without destroying the case. That 680 must be some serious stuff...
Dragoo168
Posts
239
Joined
4/14/2014
Location
NV US
12/11/2014 10:33am
If that's the route that you choose to go, i would use Locktite 609 instead of the 680. If cured properly, you're wanting to reap the benefits of the clearance deficit, not the adhesive properties of the product,.and if still unsure, you can lightly pean the opposite side of the bore (From the weld point).
bigboar
Posts
108
Joined
7/21/2013
Location
Hamilton, OH US
12/11/2014 10:54am
Dragoo168 wrote:
If that's the route that you choose to go, i would use Locktite 609 instead of the 680. If cured properly, you're wanting to reap the...
If that's the route that you choose to go, i would use Locktite 609 instead of the 680. If cured properly, you're wanting to reap the benefits of the clearance deficit, not the adhesive properties of the product,.and if still unsure, you can lightly pean the opposite side of the bore (From the weld point).
thanks for the info 168, I will run it by them when I take it back to them. I believe its the route I am going to go though as they told me it would only cost $50 compared to $260 and if it can last me until the next rebuild I feel I might as well go ahead and save the cash for now and then when it comes time I will buy the new case half and bearings for the left case.

The Shop

Dragoo168
Posts
239
Joined
4/14/2014
Location
NV US
12/11/2014 1:18pm
Dragoo168 wrote:
If that's the route that you choose to go, i would use Locktite 609 instead of the 680. If cured properly, you're wanting to reap the...
If that's the route that you choose to go, i would use Locktite 609 instead of the 680. If cured properly, you're wanting to reap the benefits of the clearance deficit, not the adhesive properties of the product,.and if still unsure, you can lightly pean the opposite side of the bore (From the weld point).
bigboar wrote:
thanks for the info 168, I will run it by them when I take it back to them. I believe its the route I am going...
thanks for the info 168, I will run it by them when I take it back to them. I believe its the route I am going to go though as they told me it would only cost $50 compared to $260 and if it can last me until the next rebuild I feel I might as well go ahead and save the cash for now and then when it comes time I will buy the new case half and bearings for the left case.
dogger315
Posts
309
Joined
11/22/2010
Location
CA US
12/11/2014 9:17pm
Sounds like a plan.

I agree with the previous poster though, about using a medium strength bearing retainer if possible. That 680 is the equivalent
of a liquid weld, It's quite permanent.

dogger

Post a reply to: 2001 honda cr250 case crack help?

The Latest