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Put some two stroke oil down the spark plug hole and turn it over by hand a few times. About all you can do.
Plug the exhaust and intake up.
If it's really going to bother you, a lil 2 stroke oil in the plug hole is good peace of mind. Other than that you should be just fine. Maybe coat those shitty KTM hardware bits with a little wd40 or SC1 to stave off any rust and don't store any fuel in the tank. It's not that serious aside from that.
This doesn't apply to a stock KTM...
On a bike with a bladder in the shock, dump the nitrogen and put a piece of tape on the handlebar pad that reminds you to recharge the shock.
The Shop
Great advice guys. I've coated it in wd40 and sc1 (covered brakes), plugged silencer, put a dab of 2 stroke oil in the spark plug hole, and have put a decent size dehumidifier next to the bike. Last question, I rejected the carb to aj565' s specs with the JD block gasket...left the carb dry. Should I keep it dry with the gas off? Thanks for the help
I hope you didn't put sc1/wd40 on the brake pads. And there's no reason for fuel to be in the tank or the carb unless you're going to start it.
Brake discs and calipers completely covered, then used carb cleaner on them just in case. Thanks for the carb tank advice
Don't forget a big cable lock to keep her secure! That's a cool bike you're saving!
Oh yes. Unfortunately we've had 4 stolen bikes from off-road races in the last three weeks. The people have their pics on all mx and gncc platforms. Have garage sensors and bike locks secured .
It’ll be fine you did plenty already.
Storage/winterizing step I've considered --- Good or bad idea?
Fill transmission completely with oil to immerse all gear/bearings. Put warning to self on bars to not start bike until oil drained to proper level.
Certainly if you don't heed your own warnings you could crack the engine cases due to the hydraulic pressure you could build potentially.
Dunno - just like the "completeness" of the oil coverage.
I’d say you guys are drastically over thinking this. From working on cars from the 50s and 60s - sitting for 6 months or 2 years is hardly even a blip.
With that said, One thing worth considering is to use a airbox wash cover and remove the airfilter
extended time the oil seems to eat the foam and the filters become a big mess to clean up.
but that’s probably 2-5+ years away not six months.
I agree with you. My worries is that this bike was made in 21/22, got a deal on it in 23, then had medical issues and turned it into a bike build until I'm ready. The date I should be released (or I can't take anymore) is late 24. .so a 2 to 3 year span of not running.
It will be fine. Just drain the fuel. I mentioned the wd40 because KTM hardware (bolts) are shit and corrode just looking at them.
I'm currently working on a gsxr 600 a buddy had stuffed in the back of his garage for 7 years. Im cleaning the fuel system. And changing fluids. Everything else is just fine. There's still even a thin coat of oil on everything up top as I'm checking valve clearances. As I stated before and @yz133rider just said, you're drastically overthinking it.
Thank you. I've done enough until ride time, overthhought it, and can't wait.
When i bought my 200 it hadn’t been ridden in close to 10 years. Grips and filter were replaced because they were falling apart, flushed some fresh fluid through the brakes, changed the oil and drained the old gas and rode it that following weekend.
Well unfortunately this ethanol fuel is no good in a metal tank, even with stabilizer in it apparently. I'm usually not a fan of stabilizers as I think they're snake oil, hot damn you should have seen this tank and fuel pump. A week soaking in vinegar, fuel pump assy rebuilt, flushed the brakes, coolant is still good. Just waiting on a new valve cover gasket and tomorrow at 5 pm marks the 96hr timeline for the tank sealer to cure. Hell or high water, this thing is getting ridden tomorrow.
Shits nasty in a metal tank, I’m a firm believer that two stroke oil acts as a pretty decent stabilizer. When I pulled the float bowl nut to drain the tank on the 200 it was near spotless, jet block and jets looked relatively clean from what I could see, filled it up and started 2nd kick. I’ve heard of a lot of circle track guys using a tiny bit of premix during winter storage.
Pit Row
Depends on the 2-stroke oil. You definitely never want to let any castor based oil sit in a carb for extended periods. Castor oil eventually breaks down and turns into stearic acid. And stearic acid is very corrosive to brass. I bought a very low hour YZ250 that the PO had let pump gas and 927 sit in the carb for ~3 yrs. Every piece of brass was totally corroded and the carb was junk.
They also sell “spark plugs” filled with desiccant you can thread in place of your actual plug. Just another thing to help with moisture/corrosion.
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