Posts
9007
Joined
2/3/2010
Location
Lehi, UT
US
Edited Date/Time
11/8/2013 9:54pm
Does anyone have any experience with these clutches?
I just put on in my 09 YZ450...but its too cold to break it in...so I'm doing that this weekend in Mesquite the day before a hare scramble.
A couple of questions:
-Any tips on adjusting the free play gain? (is it necessary to do it with the motor cold?)
-How much free play in the clutch lever do you usually run, and do you adjust the free play at the lever?
Any other tips you can give me would be appreciated. I've never used one before, and I'd like to know what to expect.
I just put on in my 09 YZ450...but its too cold to break it in...so I'm doing that this weekend in Mesquite the day before a hare scramble.
A couple of questions:
-Any tips on adjusting the free play gain? (is it necessary to do it with the motor cold?)
-How much free play in the clutch lever do you usually run, and do you adjust the free play at the lever?
Any other tips you can give me would be appreciated. I've never used one before, and I'd like to know what to expect.
You will love this clutch for technical sections.
From reading the users manual, I can adjust the clutch lever free play at the lever...but for the "Free play gain" (which is the 3mm lever movement you talk about when revving the motor in neutral), I wasn't clear if that had to be adjusted on the clutch itself, at the lever or even the in-line cable adjuster...I'll make a call to Rekluse and ask them, I guess.
For $900 my bike better not EVER stall.
Anyway, any major adjustments in riding I need to make with the rekluse? Engine breaking, etc...
I often tell people that the rekluse makes everything easier. If you cant make a hill, you probably still wont make it but if there is a hill that you struggle to get up the rekluse will make that hill easier to get up. Way less effort and work in tight technical areas. You really save energy in these sections.
One thing to watch out for is if you get stuck on a hill. The bike will want to roll down backwards
be sure to check your install gap after you get 20 minutes or so on it.
also, you may want to bump your idle up a bit. mine tends to die when its ideling down as i approach a turn if im in a gear or two to high.
The Shop
I’ve had mine for a while and they rarely need adjustment down on the pressure plate after the first break in ride. But I have found that when you are adjusting the pressure plate preload, loosening the pressure plate bolts (the ones on the main clutch springs) makes it a lot easier to loosen the center adjuster on the pressure plate.
You my also want to play with your idle speed a little to make the engagement transition a little smoother.
The only time I stall my bike anymore is if I accidentally hit the rear brake lever with the throttle slightly cracked.
I will look at the idle speed.
One other question, is it any easier to start the bike in gear with this clutch? With my traditional clutches I could never consistently start my bikes in gear...so for the dead engine starts at desert races, just to be safe, I'd always start in neutral...now, if I could consistently start in gear, that would be a huge advantage in a race....
In Mesquite this weekend it is a live engine start....so I've got until the Rhino Rally at the end of February to get the thing dialed.
How does engine braking compare to a 2-stroker?.. even less than a 2 stroke?
mike
And after I did that first race back in January, I did have to adjust the install gap...and I haven't touched it since. Free play gain is exactly where it should be.
I'd recommend this clutch (the Core EXP 2.0) to anyone and everyone...It's a great product!
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