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4/1/2016
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CA
Edited Date/Time
5/16/2016 11:44pm
Hi everyone, I'm trading my 2011 gas gas ec 300 for a CR500af this week. Before I get it I'm asking for a few tips and maybe some help. The CR is a 1998 cr250 frame with a 2001 CR500 motor. It comes with a few extras and has a reshaped cumbustion chamber. Does anyone happen to know a good starting procedure or any technique. And does anyone know what a Rocky Mountain clutch kit does with steel seperator plates. Thanks!
If you want a 500 CR AF, get one with a CRF frame.
FIRST, the two most important factors in starting the CR500 (other than the general internal condition of the engine), are 1) the carburetor idle jet, and 2) the ignition system.
I've had 500s with the original ('88) ignition system and with a '97 CR250R ignition system. While I could start either one, the later digital ignitions start much easier and idle better.
If your idle jet is very much too fat or too lean, you're going to need a strong leg with some stamina to get it started, and might not get it started at all if you're more than 1 size off either direction.
If the engine is in good internal condition, and the carburetor is jetted correctly, this was my procedure for a cold start.
1) Put on boots
2) 5-7 slow kicks to draw fresh fuel into the engine
3) Choke on, kicker indexed just barely past TDC. Now one solid kick all the way through. My bike started on the first kick 90% of the time.
When the engine is warmed up, skip step two and leave the choke off.
The Shop
My 89 500 was pretty easy to start. I always leaned it over on its side till fuel came out the overflow if it had been a while since it ran. As far as the 98 frame I would proably pass and lol for 2004 or newer frame. Ridden a couple service Honda conversions. Look out for the home built machines some are done right some are hacks.
there a lot for sale in the usa spend some time and find a good one also check were the frame has been welded and look for any crack etc
The only good thing about these frames was that the engine slid in real easily...
For the rest, it sure improved my suspension tuning skills.
In my memory, the unpredictable overall handling and supertanker front end geometry were far worse than the global stiffness...
Tons of work on settings, offset and front height to get to end up with something average at best.
Oh, did I mention we had to reweld the upper subframe mount every six months, no matter how we reinforced it?
Probably due to the single radiator, also got steamy real quick in the woods. Had to install a fan to cure it.
Never had a starting problem with any of my 500 CRs. Pass the comp and give a steady kick.
Oh, and no flipflops or sneakers.
Far easier than most 450s IMO...
The clutch steel plates are cheaper, last longer and are supposed to give a little more inertia and smooth out the power, the same way a flywheel weight does. Unnoticeable for the common mortal.
I also would much rather have a steel framed 500 instead of a '98 conversion. As others mentioned, any 2000-up Honda frame is a much better choice for a swap.
There's another efficient trick which requires even less energy: put it in first gear and rock it back and forth. Then back to neutral and kick.
Enuff said.
Pit Row
Can't believe how much it was lengthened...
Sure it's gonna get the handling even better!
In late 97, I did 5 AF conversions using the first generation AF frames for a group of friends.They could be done in an easy day in my workshop. Within a few months, 4 had gone back to their steelies. The steelies were Far better Bikes, at that time, and, for the next few years AF Honda chassis. I still prefer my steel frame, over even later AFs, though, I've had it from new in 2003 ( OZ CRE 500, near the last one out of the warehouse), and, it is very heavily modified to suite me, and only me. Though, all of my mates love riding it. They collectively call it the PW500......
They , gen 1 and 2 AFs, weren't much chop , to put it mildy, and, you need also to consider just how bloody old a 98 is. I still get blokes wanting me to do conversions - I've generally said No, as I have far better things to do. But, last year I had 3 close friends corner me into doing conversions. 2 I sent away with orders to find far later / healthier doner Bikes than they turned up with. Never forget, even a last year Gen 3, a very good basis for a conversion, can have had near 10 years of hard service / neglect.
Still not great by any means...
And it sure did vibrate a lot, even with a balanced crank.
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