Enclosed Trailer Size?????

Mickolobe7
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Edited Date/Time 9/12/2015 9:11am
I am looking to buy a new enclosed trailer 7X14 V nose dual axel for 2 450s and my sons 50. Want to have a good amount of room for a shop set up. What are most guys using smaller or bigger? What do you recommend? Looking to spend around $2500 but want to buy the right one the 1st time!

Please post pictures of you trailer and set up! I would appreciate you feed back looking to get one with in a week would buy one now but not sure what size to get?! I want enough room for 4 big bikes if needed for my buddy's!

Thanks for any pics and feed back!
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BroFoSho
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6/13/2014 2:06pm Edited Date/Time 6/13/2014 2:08pm
I just use a 6x12. I have it set up for three bikes but it can only comfortably hold two bikes with gear. Three bikes is a tight squeeze and the gear bags then need to go in the vehicle. I use the wheel locks as you can kind of see in the picture below. I think they work great and there is no need to have straps running across the trailer.

I would say for 4 bikes and gear... a 7x16 might be best since you'll have to offset the bikes.
The reason I went small is because I am pulling the trailer with a 6cyl SUV


Doctor Mark has a sweet setup, see if he can post in here
beamer
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Squaw River CA
6/13/2014 2:10pm
If you are looking to haul 4 big bikes then I think the 7 x 14 would be the smallest you would want to go. I have a 6 x 12 v nose and I can haul 3 big bikes if needed. I put 2 removable wheel chocks in and then the 3rd bike I load backwards and use the ramp door as its stopper. I also put in a metal parts shelf in the front with small parts boxes for most needed items. Its worked very well here for the past 5 years and its easy to tow. I don't have any pics at the moment and its a pretty big mess right now but I could get some.

The Shop

Mickolobe7
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6/13/2014 2:26pm
Thanks for the feed back and pics! I would only have 2 bikes and pw50 most of the time 3 or 4 if I need to.

More pics and your input would help thanks dudes!
Preston412
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Saint Augustine, FL US
6/13/2014 2:46pm Edited Date/Time 6/13/2014 3:03pm
7X14 is a good size, I have one but I would suggest you get a round nose instead of a V nose, there is more usable space. I can get four big bikes and all the necessities needed for the weekend and still have room for two small bikes.

Sorry no pictures to show you but I have two mounted wheel chocks up front and two removable chocks in the center, several D hooks along the sides and two in the back, because you can turn the bikes around use the door as a brace for the front tire.
Motosports have the wheel chocks, I have the Lockhart Philips for the removable ones and the Titan for the fixed ones.
http://www.motosport.com/motorcycle/wheel-chocks
Just check your local hardware store for a bag of D rings.
6/13/2014 2:56pm Edited Date/Time 6/13/2014 2:57pm
I've used a 6x10 Vnose with the wheel chocks that clamp over the front wheel. Staggered the chocks, built a small shelf in the V of the trailer and it was okay...tight, but okay. Now, VNose trailers don't all measure out the same so look at the length from back to where the V actually starts. You need at least 10 feet. I recently purchased a 6x12 and the V starts at about 10.5 feet. Anyway, a 6x12 should be good for you. At $2500 you will be in the "entry level" line of trailers so if you do a lot of hauling you may want your budget to go up. If it's just the random once every 3-4 weeks then you should have no worries for a long time.
jeffro503
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6/13/2014 3:56pm
Damn Mick.....did you win the damn lottery!!?? Haha! You're going full core moto my brother! Good for you and glad you're having a blast doing it!
KMC440
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6/13/2014 4:02pm Edited Date/Time 6/13/2014 4:05pm
If you go 8ft wide the bikes will go in laterally instead of inline ... makes it possible to get more bikes in ... just a suggestion

8x16 .... 8 big bikes and 3 pitbikes ... not counting the bench in the front
Mickolobe7
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6/13/2014 4:34pm
jeffro503 wrote:
Damn Mick.....did you win the damn lottery!!?? Haha! You're going full core moto my brother! Good for you and glad you're having a blast doing it!
Ya Jeff since a got my son a pw50 when he turned 19 months I bought a CRF 450! My dad got me a pw50 when I was 3 and raced since then till about 10 years ago! This is my Dream to have my son riding and hope he can start racing in a few years but start him early son he will be fast when he is 5! Start to travel with the family and go to Loretta Lynn's every year! A dream come true.

I own a plumbing company so I'm his sponsor! Go Big
lostboy819
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6/13/2014 5:22pm
The bigger the better, get the biggest trailer you can afford and that you can pull.
jeffro503
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6/13/2014 6:01pm
jeffro503 wrote:
Damn Mick.....did you win the damn lottery!!?? Haha! You're going full core moto my brother! Good for you and glad you're having a blast doing it!
Mickolobe7 wrote:
Ya Jeff since a got my son a pw50 when he turned 19 months I bought a CRF 450! My dad got me a pw50 when...
Ya Jeff since a got my son a pw50 when he turned 19 months I bought a CRF 450! My dad got me a pw50 when I was 3 and raced since then till about 10 years ago! This is my Dream to have my son riding and hope he can start racing in a few years but start him early son he will be fast when he is 5! Start to travel with the family and go to Loretta Lynn's every year! A dream come true.

I own a plumbing company so I'm his sponsor! Go Big
Well that is awesome man! You're living my dream in fact. The fun is only starting for you. Going to be REALLY fun when the boy starts riding with you. Congrats on all of it Mick!
tmauto769
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6/13/2014 6:18pm Edited Date/Time 6/13/2014 6:20pm
sorry I don't have any pics right now, and it is raining out. lol. I have a vnose 6x12 and can fit 2 full size bikes and my wifes klx140 in there just fine. I can get a 4th one in there backwards between 2 of them but that is getting tight. I have a medium sized tool box, generator, all my gear, spare tire etc. Which ever size you get I really recommend getting these wheel chocks for it. http://www.ebay.com/itm/6-x-23-25-wheel-chock-Aluminum-Diamond-Plate-Re…

I have three of these in mine, and they are well worth the money imo. When the bikes are out just fold them down and they are out of the way.

Here are some cheaper ones made out of steel and probably in china,http://www.ebay.com/itm/Recessed-Motorcycle-Trailer-Wheel-Chock-Nest-Ne… the diamond plate aluminum ones are made by a fabricator here in the USA and are not really that much more money.
FLmxer
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6/13/2014 6:52pm
I have the 6x12 but always wished I had a 7x14 because I thought the bikes could go sideways but may need an 8x14. It's amazing how much room is left when the bike are sideways.
captmoto
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6/13/2014 6:53pm Edited Date/Time 6/13/2014 6:55pm
7 x 14 minimum, I have a 6 x 12 and wish I had gone 7' and probably would go 16. I don't know where you expect to find a 7 x 14 for $2500. I paid $3300 for mine. Used aren't usually all that cheap and in SoCal they go quick. I use a drop in wheel chock too. Mine isn't even bolted in. The tie downs keep it in place. I really like them and use my trailer for other chores and they make it easier.
I don't get the obsession with work benches. I prep everything before I go. If I need to fix a flat I use my tailgate. Any more than that and I'm probably done. I've only ever had 1 major breakdown and that was a broken shift drum on a vintage bike that couldn't be repaired at the track.
shanes
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6/13/2014 7:28pm
mine is perfect for 2 superbikes or 3 mx bikes , it doesn't catch the air so fuel milage isn't stupid when towing , all alloy so light as well





Zesiger 112
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6/13/2014 7:36pm
shanes wrote:
mine is perfect for 2 superbikes or 3 mx bikes , it doesn't catch the air so fuel milage isn't stupid when towing , all alloy...
mine is perfect for 2 superbikes or 3 mx bikes , it doesn't catch the air so fuel milage isn't stupid when towing , all alloy so light as well





Does the top go up on that thing to get the bikes out without bending over? That thing is sweet and simple
Zesiger 112
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6/13/2014 7:41pm
shanes wrote:
mine is perfect for 2 superbikes or 3 mx bikes , it doesn't catch the air so fuel milage isn't stupid when towing , all alloy...
mine is perfect for 2 superbikes or 3 mx bikes , it doesn't catch the air so fuel milage isn't stupid when towing , all alloy so light as well





Does the top go up on that thing to get the bikes out without bending over? That thing is sweet and simple
Mickolobe7
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6/13/2014 8:07pm
captmoto wrote:
7 x 14 minimum, I have a 6 x 12 and wish I had gone 7' and probably would go 16. I don't know where you...
7 x 14 minimum, I have a 6 x 12 and wish I had gone 7' and probably would go 16. I don't know where you expect to find a 7 x 14 for $2500. I paid $3300 for mine. Used aren't usually all that cheap and in SoCal they go quick. I use a drop in wheel chock too. Mine isn't even bolted in. The tie downs keep it in place. I really like them and use my trailer for other chores and they make it easier.
I don't get the obsession with work benches. I prep everything before I go. If I need to fix a flat I use my tailgate. Any more than that and I'm probably done. I've only ever had 1 major breakdown and that was a broken shift drum on a vintage bike that couldn't be repaired at the track.
MXD
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6/13/2014 9:32pm
I have a 7x16 and I haul 2 big bikes and my sons 50. I can get 3 big bikes and the 50 in there easily as well. I'll snap a few pics tomorrow and post them up.

I would avoid a v nose for 2 main reasons. The first one is because these trailers tend to get real heavy in the tongue and you'll eventually need a weight distributing hitch. Unless your v nose has an extended tongue, the WD hitch won't work as there isn't enough room on the A frame of the trailer between ball and the front of the V for the brackets to mount. You need about 32 inches of exposed A frame from the ball to where the brackets for hitch will mount. The second reason is that it makes it difficult to build a cabinet in the front. When you're building cabinets, 90 degree angles are your friends. Also, don't believe people who tell you that it saves fuel mileage because it doesn't. If you do the math, the V would need to be roughly 72% of the total length of the trailer to save enough fuel to measure. The V on cargo trailers is so shallow, it does nothing. Cutting the height of the trailer down 6 inches will save 10x the fuel that the V will.

Some other things to look for
-16 on center wall studs since most stuff you buy to hang have holes 16 on center
-1 piece seamless roof which is a huge insurance policy against leaks
-LED lighting otherwise you'll be changing bulbs every spring
-torsion axles for a smoother ride and less bounce in the cargo area
-minimum 3/8 interior walls so you can screw stuff to it
-radial tires because bias ply develop flat spots when they sit for long periods which trailers do


When it comes to trailers, there is no better example of "you get what you pay for". Be careful buying a new trailer in that price range.
Darryl916
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Budds Creek, MD US
6/13/2014 9:42pm Edited Date/Time 6/13/2014 9:49pm
7X16 I'm just starting to outfit the way I want. Got the walls and floor painted. Water for pressure washing. E-track and cabinets to come. Roof A/C unit, shore plug, and power inverter to come later.







Mickolobe7
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6/13/2014 9:44pm
MXD wrote:
I have a 7x16 and I haul 2 big bikes and my sons 50. I can get 3 big bikes and the 50 in there easily...
I have a 7x16 and I haul 2 big bikes and my sons 50. I can get 3 big bikes and the 50 in there easily as well. I'll snap a few pics tomorrow and post them up.

I would avoid a v nose for 2 main reasons. The first one is because these trailers tend to get real heavy in the tongue and you'll eventually need a weight distributing hitch. Unless your v nose has an extended tongue, the WD hitch won't work as there isn't enough room on the A frame of the trailer between ball and the front of the V for the brackets to mount. You need about 32 inches of exposed A frame from the ball to where the brackets for hitch will mount. The second reason is that it makes it difficult to build a cabinet in the front. When you're building cabinets, 90 degree angles are your friends. Also, don't believe people who tell you that it saves fuel mileage because it doesn't. If you do the math, the V would need to be roughly 72% of the total length of the trailer to save enough fuel to measure. The V on cargo trailers is so shallow, it does nothing. Cutting the height of the trailer down 6 inches will save 10x the fuel that the V will.

Some other things to look for
-16 on center wall studs since most stuff you buy to hang have holes 16 on center
-1 piece seamless roof which is a huge insurance policy against leaks
-LED lighting otherwise you'll be changing bulbs every spring
-torsion axles for a smoother ride and less bounce in the cargo area
-minimum 3/8 interior walls so you can screw stuff to it
-radial tires because bias ply develop flat spots when they sit for long periods which trailers do


When it comes to trailers, there is no better example of "you get what you pay for". Be careful buying a new trailer in that price range.
What brand trailer do you have? I appreciate the pictures when you get a chance! Thanks MXD
Darryl916
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6/13/2014 9:53pm Edited Date/Time 6/13/2014 9:54pm
Here is a picture of the test fit when I was brainstorming how I wanted to set it up. I can do 3 bikes or 2 bikes and a quad the way I decided to do it with the bikes on an angle.


MXD
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6/13/2014 9:56pm
MXD wrote:
I have a 7x16 and I haul 2 big bikes and my sons 50. I can get 3 big bikes and the 50 in there easily...
I have a 7x16 and I haul 2 big bikes and my sons 50. I can get 3 big bikes and the 50 in there easily as well. I'll snap a few pics tomorrow and post them up.

I would avoid a v nose for 2 main reasons. The first one is because these trailers tend to get real heavy in the tongue and you'll eventually need a weight distributing hitch. Unless your v nose has an extended tongue, the WD hitch won't work as there isn't enough room on the A frame of the trailer between ball and the front of the V for the brackets to mount. You need about 32 inches of exposed A frame from the ball to where the brackets for hitch will mount. The second reason is that it makes it difficult to build a cabinet in the front. When you're building cabinets, 90 degree angles are your friends. Also, don't believe people who tell you that it saves fuel mileage because it doesn't. If you do the math, the V would need to be roughly 72% of the total length of the trailer to save enough fuel to measure. The V on cargo trailers is so shallow, it does nothing. Cutting the height of the trailer down 6 inches will save 10x the fuel that the V will.

Some other things to look for
-16 on center wall studs since most stuff you buy to hang have holes 16 on center
-1 piece seamless roof which is a huge insurance policy against leaks
-LED lighting otherwise you'll be changing bulbs every spring
-torsion axles for a smoother ride and less bounce in the cargo area
-minimum 3/8 interior walls so you can screw stuff to it
-radial tires because bias ply develop flat spots when they sit for long periods which trailers do


When it comes to trailers, there is no better example of "you get what you pay for". Be careful buying a new trailer in that price range.
Mickolobe7 wrote:
What brand trailer do you have? I appreciate the pictures when you get a chance! Thanks MXD
I went with a Car Mate Custom Cargo. It comes standard with torsion axles, LED lighting, radial tires and a one piece roof which were all "must haves". The walls are framed using 2x3 wood studs 16 on center so building out the inside was easy. The Car Mate also comes with a lifetime warrany against rotting on the floor and roof leaks to the original owner. Lastly, the car mate dealer is 20 minutes down the road if I ever have a warranty issue.
MXD
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6/13/2014 10:02pm
Here is one with it empty. The cabinets are L shaped so the tool box faces the side door. I'll grab a few more detailed pics tomorrow. Its also all wired up with deep cycle battery so I have lights and some power for camping.



captmoto
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6/13/2014 10:34pm Edited Date/Time 6/13/2014 10:35pm
captmoto wrote:
7 x 14 minimum, I have a 6 x 12 and wish I had gone 7' and probably would go 16. I don't know where you...
7 x 14 minimum, I have a 6 x 12 and wish I had gone 7' and probably would go 16. I don't know where you expect to find a 7 x 14 for $2500. I paid $3300 for mine. Used aren't usually all that cheap and in SoCal they go quick. I use a drop in wheel chock too. Mine isn't even bolted in. The tie downs keep it in place. I really like them and use my trailer for other chores and they make it easier.
I don't get the obsession with work benches. I prep everything before I go. If I need to fix a flat I use my tailgate. Any more than that and I'm probably done. I've only ever had 1 major breakdown and that was a broken shift drum on a vintage bike that couldn't be repaired at the track.
Mickolobe7 wrote:
I thought you wanted a double axle? 12' and a work bench is too short. I don't care for the rivets/screws in trailers. The stamped ribs in the roof and walls seem flimsy. I know they flex and I don't like that wrinkled skin look. I've seen Wells Cargo trailers pop the screws out and I've seem them back out.
My trailer has 1" square tubing in the walls. You need to look at the size and spacing of the floor joists as well as the load rating of the tail gate. Also if the frame is square tubing or c-channel. There's is lots to consider that drives the price up but you get what you pay for.
Mickolobe7
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6/13/2014 10:48pm
captmoto wrote:
7 x 14 minimum, I have a 6 x 12 and wish I had gone 7' and probably would go 16. I don't know where you...
7 x 14 minimum, I have a 6 x 12 and wish I had gone 7' and probably would go 16. I don't know where you expect to find a 7 x 14 for $2500. I paid $3300 for mine. Used aren't usually all that cheap and in SoCal they go quick. I use a drop in wheel chock too. Mine isn't even bolted in. The tie downs keep it in place. I really like them and use my trailer for other chores and they make it easier.
I don't get the obsession with work benches. I prep everything before I go. If I need to fix a flat I use my tailgate. Any more than that and I'm probably done. I've only ever had 1 major breakdown and that was a broken shift drum on a vintage bike that couldn't be repaired at the track.
Mickolobe7 wrote:
captmoto wrote:
I thought you wanted a double axle? 12' and a work bench is too short. I don't care for the rivets/screws in trailers. The stamped ribs...
I thought you wanted a double axle? 12' and a work bench is too short. I don't care for the rivets/screws in trailers. The stamped ribs in the roof and walls seem flimsy. I know they flex and I don't like that wrinkled skin look. I've seen Wells Cargo trailers pop the screws out and I've seem them back out.
My trailer has 1" square tubing in the walls. You need to look at the size and spacing of the floor joists as well as the load rating of the tail gate. Also if the frame is square tubing or c-channel. There's is lots to consider that drives the price up but you get what you pay for.
Thanks for the info. Does anyone know a web link I can find a good trailer I think I want to go with a single axle not sure yet dont know if I need it?
shanes
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6/13/2014 10:56pm
Does the top go up on that thing to get the bikes out without bending over? That thing is sweet and simple
back door folds down as the ramp , the top goes up to about 40 degrees so you can get in and out easy
Jack mehoff
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6/13/2014 11:35pm
Mickolobe7 wrote:
captmoto wrote:
I thought you wanted a double axle? 12' and a work bench is too short. I don't care for the rivets/screws in trailers. The stamped ribs...
I thought you wanted a double axle? 12' and a work bench is too short. I don't care for the rivets/screws in trailers. The stamped ribs in the roof and walls seem flimsy. I know they flex and I don't like that wrinkled skin look. I've seen Wells Cargo trailers pop the screws out and I've seem them back out.
My trailer has 1" square tubing in the walls. You need to look at the size and spacing of the floor joists as well as the load rating of the tail gate. Also if the frame is square tubing or c-channel. There's is lots to consider that drives the price up but you get what you pay for.
Mickolobe7 wrote:
Thanks for the info. Does anyone know a web link I can find a good trailer I think I want to go with a single axle...
Thanks for the info. Does anyone know a web link I can find a good trailer I think I want to go with a single axle not sure yet dont know if I need it?
Racing junk has a ton off new and used

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