Posts
1076
Joined
9/5/2013
Location
Chicago, IL
US
Edited Date/Time
9/12/2015 9:11am
I am looking to buy a new enclosed trailer 7X14 V nose dual axel for 2 450s and my sons 50. Want to have a good amount of room for a shop set up. What are most guys using smaller or bigger? What do you recommend? Looking to spend around $2500 but want to buy the right one the 1st time!
Please post pictures of you trailer and set up! I would appreciate you feed back looking to get one with in a week would buy one now but not sure what size to get?! I want enough room for 4 big bikes if needed for my buddy's!
Thanks for any pics and feed back!
Please post pictures of you trailer and set up! I would appreciate you feed back looking to get one with in a week would buy one now but not sure what size to get?! I want enough room for 4 big bikes if needed for my buddy's!
Thanks for any pics and feed back!
I would say for 4 bikes and gear... a 7x16 might be best since you'll have to offset the bikes.
The reason I went small is because I am pulling the trailer with a 6cyl SUV
Doctor Mark has a sweet setup, see if he can post in here
The Shop
More pics and your input would help thanks dudes!
Sorry no pictures to show you but I have two mounted wheel chocks up front and two removable chocks in the center, several D hooks along the sides and two in the back, because you can turn the bikes around use the door as a brace for the front tire.
Motosports have the wheel chocks, I have the Lockhart Philips for the removable ones and the Titan for the fixed ones.
http://www.motosport.com/motorcycle/wheel-chocks
Just check your local hardware store for a bag of D rings.
8x16 .... 8 big bikes and 3 pitbikes ... not counting the bench in the front
I own a plumbing company so I'm his sponsor! Go Big
I have three of these in mine, and they are well worth the money imo. When the bikes are out just fold them down and they are out of the way.
Here are some cheaper ones made out of steel and probably in china,http://www.ebay.com/itm/Recessed-Motorcycle-Trailer-Wheel-Chock-Nest-Ne… the diamond plate aluminum ones are made by a fabricator here in the USA and are not really that much more money.
I don't get the obsession with work benches. I prep everything before I go. If I need to fix a flat I use my tailgate. Any more than that and I'm probably done. I've only ever had 1 major breakdown and that was a broken shift drum on a vintage bike that couldn't be repaired at the track.
Pit Row
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-7x12-SINGLE-AXLE-DIAMOND-ENCLOSED-CARGO-OR-…
I would avoid a v nose for 2 main reasons. The first one is because these trailers tend to get real heavy in the tongue and you'll eventually need a weight distributing hitch. Unless your v nose has an extended tongue, the WD hitch won't work as there isn't enough room on the A frame of the trailer between ball and the front of the V for the brackets to mount. You need about 32 inches of exposed A frame from the ball to where the brackets for hitch will mount. The second reason is that it makes it difficult to build a cabinet in the front. When you're building cabinets, 90 degree angles are your friends. Also, don't believe people who tell you that it saves fuel mileage because it doesn't. If you do the math, the V would need to be roughly 72% of the total length of the trailer to save enough fuel to measure. The V on cargo trailers is so shallow, it does nothing. Cutting the height of the trailer down 6 inches will save 10x the fuel that the V will.
Some other things to look for
-16 on center wall studs since most stuff you buy to hang have holes 16 on center
-1 piece seamless roof which is a huge insurance policy against leaks
-LED lighting otherwise you'll be changing bulbs every spring
-torsion axles for a smoother ride and less bounce in the cargo area
-minimum 3/8 interior walls so you can screw stuff to it
-radial tires because bias ply develop flat spots when they sit for long periods which trailers do
When it comes to trailers, there is no better example of "you get what you pay for". Be careful buying a new trailer in that price range.
My trailer has 1" square tubing in the walls. You need to look at the size and spacing of the floor joists as well as the load rating of the tail gate. Also if the frame is square tubing or c-channel. There's is lots to consider that drives the price up but you get what you pay for.
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