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Flats definitely have a place, but that is not on my bikes.
Then, every time I fall over because I get stuck on a techy climb and can't unclip, I want flats. It happens way too often.
The Shop
I do have their dropper post and love it.
Here is what I run, thin and light. Go factory and get the magnesium!
https://canfieldbikes.com/collections/pedals/products/canfield-bikes-cr…
1. We wanted to make a performance pedals and shave weight wherever we could. 7075-T6 aluminum pins are our way to remove 40-50 grams per pedal. Steel pins are for sure more durable. When our pins get compromised hey shear off and they are easily removed. We sell them for .60 per pin.
2. Aluminum pins allow us to really do some custom colors. You can orer your pedal from our site with the pin color you want. We will build them and ship them!
Here is a new color we are going to do...SHHHHHH!
Pit Row
I feel BB height dictates crank length more than rider height.
BigE if you are searching for a Distributor for the oceanic region my friend owns one of the larger distributers here and their service is top notch. Just fix that exchange rate first!! Its hurting
Ends up it’s just dirt and an optical illusion-
For me, it's all about the thinnest pedals I can find. I've knees that barely bend, so short cranks, and a pedal top as close to the center line of the axle, is what I Need . Thinner pedals also have much less tendency to 'roll over' on you. I have never, never been able to use clipless pedals, because of destroyed knees, since my Teenage years. I Wish I could use them, but, much of my time, I'm pedaling on one, or both, of my heels. . I wish I could still use longer cranks than the 160 / 165s I have to use now - I used 200/203s with big gears, decades ago in BMX. I've never been a 'spinner'. Heck, I'm about to get some 155s from Canfields, such is the bend limit my knees have now
I've used Canfields, as they were one of the first to go to very thin pedals. I accepted their bearing and bushing wear rates to have something so thin - thinness doesn't give you much room for HD bearings and bushes. But, regular maintenance, sorts that. The convex profile to them takes some getting used to, though.
I mostly use One Up Alloys now. They've been great - thin, and durable. I'd like to try composite ones, for what is said their less 'grabby' nature on rocks ( I live in Sandstone Rock Central) , but the extra thickness, vetoes their use for me.
I wish Tiogas Zero Axle Pedals were made so they didn't have the disclaimer on their paperwork saying: " this Product ...... Is Not designed and Should Not be used for Downhill, Freeride, Freestyle, Dirt Jumping or BMX. Do Not use for Stationary or Exercise Cycles"
Now, if you read most warnings for even the most highly touted pedals ( or, other products), you'll usually, to your surprise, see caveats / disclaimers like those. But even Stationary or Exercise Cycles?????? Bloody Hell. Covering their arses as much as possible.... I've used the Tiogas for a few years now, in all sorts of nasty usages, and, they are yet to fail. But, I did replace the OEM bolts that held the Axle 'bolt' Assembly to the Pedal Body. People were having them break, all to often. But, for genuinely hard use, it's the One Ups that are put on.
I 'know' just a bit about bicycles / engineering. Here's one of my long wheelbase / long reach 20"ers I made in 1980 / 81, when I came back to BMX after losing my kneecap, and shattering my leg. I've 4 more of my 'experiments' in length, - sequestered with a mate whose got most of my protoypes / examples of frames I've made over the decades - each one an Inch step up from each other, over this one, made in that period. But, this was the first I really made quite a bit longer than the standards of that time :
I've got the old DX cranks on, because I can run them at the length of 165mm. The DX pedals in those pictures, I've used now , on and off, for near on 40 years...
I came back from that dreadful injury, mainly racing my Cruisers, but made the long 20"ers so as not to sit around all day. I could still make Pro Mains on the 20s, but I could Win Pro Cruiser Mains. Conventional 20"ers, were just so bloody short, once you went to a Cruiser, in those days.
I've made Bicycle and Motorcycle frames, for just on 5 decades now.
Something I've up in my Jig, right now : a Pinion Gearboxed DHer I'm trying to get finished before another operation, on Wednesday. Not. Going. To. Happen, I'm afraid. Ho Hum, my 'test' rider(s) can just bloody well wait....... I'm Always the first one to ride My frames
But, back to the Yoshimura Pedals - hell guys, I'm sure you could make something genuinely innovative. They are, quite beautiful, that's for sure. I hope you've got far more to come, in the pipeline, and it's not just a 'passion project', or, indulgence.
I’m in the process of adding some bling to my Bronson. If you can’t go fast, look fast. It would be cool to buy a group of products that all match as a kit. Example, pedals, seat clamp, and bar mount. Find parts that have common sizes among brands (performance/non performance) and sell with a performance product.
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